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Setting Up a Saltwater Aquarium Outline Articleposted: November 19, 2009, 01:25 PM
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Setting Up a Saltwater Aquarium Outline 1. Select a location for the aquarium. It should be away from direct sunlight and loud noises. The floor should also support the weight of the aquarium. Water weighs approximately 8 pounds per gallon. 
2. Level the aquarium stand. 3. If the aquarium is made from acrylic, place a foam board on top of the stand to help prevent the acrylic from cracking. 4. Clean the aquarium with warm water to remove any dirt and dust. If the aquarium was used, clean with vinegar and warm water to remove any calcium deposits. Do not use bleach. 5. Place the aquarium on the stand and level. 6. Fill the aquarium with tap water to check for any leaks. 7. If the aquarium uses an overflow, plumb the pipes to the Sump below. Use plenty of union valves to make the plumbing modular in case you need to make any later changes. 8. Level the sump. 9. Fill the sump with tap water to check for any leaks. 10. Plumb the return line from the Return Pump in the sump back up to the aquarium. Install a ball valve to control the pump’s flow. Remember to use PVC primer to prevent leaks. 11. Let the PVC cure and then test for any leaks by filling the drain with Reverse Osmosis water. 12. Fill the return pump compartment with Reverse Osmosis water and test for any leaks by turning on the return pump. 13. Fill the aquarium and sump with Reverse Osmosis water. 14. Turn on the return pump and water should begin to move from the aquarium down to the sump and from the sump back up the aquarium. 15. Make sure the return pipe nozzle is above water and then turn off the return pump. Determine if the sump has enough water volume to handle the overflow in the event of a power outage. If there is too much water, reduce the water level in the sump and repeat. Determine a maximum safe water level and mark it on the sump. Turn on the return pump. 16. Place your heater in the aquarium for 15 minutes to allow it to acclimate to the temperature. This will prevent the heater from cracking. Heat the water to approximately 78 degrees. 17. Add salt mix to the aquarium, approximately 2 cups per 5 gallons of water. This should create a specific gravity of approximately 1.020. Continue to mix the salt until it is all dissolved. Wait a few hours and verify the reading with your Hydrometer or Refractometer. The typical reef aquarium maintains a specific gravity around 1.025 and the average fish only aquarium around 1.020. If the salinity is too high remove some water and replace with pure Reverse Osmosis water. If the salinity is too low add more salt. Continue retesting and making adjustments until the desired salinity is reached. Please note, you will not normally mix salt directly in the aquarium as this can be harmful to fish, corals and invertebrates. 18. Thoroughly rinse substrate, like Live Sand or Aragonite with tap or Reverse Osmosis water to remove any debris. 19. Add substrate to the desired aquarium depth. Most shallow sand beds are 1-2” deep and most deep sand beds are 4” or more deep. Your aquarium will become cloudy for several hours, this is normal. 20. While waiting for the aquarium to clear, install the aquarium’s filtration, such as a Protein Skimmer, wet/dry filter, or sponge filter. This will help the aquarium clear more rapidly. 21. Install any other equipment like Lights, Fans, Chillers, UV Sterilizers, reactors and controllers. 22. Once the water has cleared, turn off the return pump. If the water has not cleared within 24 hours still turn off the return pump to allow the substrate to settle. 23. Begin aquascaping your aquarium with decorations or Live Rock. If you are using live rock leave at least 3” between the rock and front and back walls. This will make cleaning and maintenance easier. To aquascape your rock, start by placing larger, heavier, more sturdy pieces on the sand. Then add medium size pieces to create arches, caves, bridges and other interesting structures. Then use small pieces to fill in any gaps or to make your rock more secure. It is important that the rock does not shift, as this can create a rock slide, which could crack your aquarium’s glass. 24. Restart the return pump. 25. Place Powerheads in the aquarium and adjust until there are little or no dead spots in the aquarium. This may take some practice and adjustment as time goes on. To maximize flow place the powerheads near the surface of the water. 26. At this point your aquarium should be fully functional and you can run the light for eight to twelve hours per day. It is best to place your light on a timer to keep a consistent schedule. 27. After a few days test your water for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate, or consider purchasing a Master Test Kit. You should also start to see a brown diatom bloom at this time. This is normal and should go away on its own within a week. If the diatoms persist, brush them off the rocks and glass with your hand or scrubber. 28. Once ammonia and nitrite have reached 0 and nitrate is below 20ppm. Wait three days and retest. If ammonia and nitrite are still below 0 and nitrate is still below 20ppm, it may be time to add your first fish. 29. Recheck your aquarium’s pH, temperature and salinity to make sure they are within an acceptable range. An appropriate pH is between 8.0 and 8.4. Make adjustments as necessary. 30. It is finally time to add your first fish. Send Us Your Questions: If you have any other Saltwater Aquarium related questions, Follow the link below and select the “Ask A Question” tab at the top of the page. We will quickly and gladly answer any of your questions, no matter how basic. Find More Information: To view more information about the underlined products, or to find more Articles, please visit http://www.NanoReefAquariums.com/SettingUpASaltwaterAquariumOutline • Location: indianapolis, in
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What are Easy Corals to Keep Articleposted: November 12, 2009, 01:54 PM
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What are Easy Corals to Keep Have you thought about keeping corals, but just needed some basic information to get you going? Given the proper environment, most hobbyists find that some corals are easier to keep than fish. Corals can be classified into four categories. 
Soft Corals are generally the easiest variety of coral for the beginner hobbyist to keep. Mushrooms, Zoanthid Polyps, Leathers and Star Polyps make excellent first corals. Most can be maintained under Standard Fluorescent and Power Compact lighting. Although not ideal, most soft corals can tolerate nitrate levels up to 50ppm. The easiest way to identify a soft coral is by their fleshy skin, but when the coral dies it leaves no skeleton behind. Most hobbyists find that soft corals grow rapidly and add some extra movement in the water column. 
LPS Corals, also known as Large Polyp Stony or Large Polyp Scleractinia Corals, are the next level of coral keeping and are less tolerant of nitrates above 30ppm. Most also require more intense lighting, like Power Compact, VHO, T5 or Metal Halide. Beginner LPS coral include Frogspawns, Hammers, Torches and Brains. For the beginner coral keeper it can be hard to differentiate soft corals from LPS corals. Although both have fleshy tissue, when LPS corals die they will leave behind a stony skeleton. Of the four varieties of corals, LPS are generally the slowest growing, but are desired for their waving polyps and interesting color varieties. 
SPS Corals are also known as Small Polyp Stony or Small Polyp Scleractinia Corals and are considered some of the more difficult corals to maintain. SPS corals are not tolerant of nitrates above 10ppm and require more intense lighting like T5 or Metal Halide. Most hobbyists struggle to maintain coral colors under Power Compact and VHO lighting. SPS Corals also prefer stronger water movement than LPS and Soft Corals. Aquarists planning to keep SPS Corals will also need to add Calcium and Alkalinity Supplements to maintain ideal levels. Small Polyp Stony Corals are easy to identify because most look like “Fuzzy Branching Sticks.” If you look closely, SPS Corals contain a variety of small polyps all along the skeleton. Popular SPS corals include Montiporas and Acroporas. Most novice hobbyists find these corals unappealing at first because they provide no movement in the water column, but they make up for it in their wide array of colors and growth patterns. SPS Corals do not make good beginner corals and more research should be done if you plan to keep SPS Corals, as this article is only a general overview of the different coral types. The fourth type is Non-Photosynthetic Corals and Gorgonians. This particular classification includes Carnations (soft coral), Sun Coral (LPS coral), Firecracker Coral (LPS coral), Gorgonians and Sea Fans. Most hobbyists find all but the Sun and Firecracker Coral particularly challenging, as they require feeding to maintain life. Carnations and Sea Fans should only be attempted by expert hobbyists as they require routine feedings of Phytoplankton, Zooplankton, Cyclops and other micro fauna. Other corals that should be avoided by beginner hobbyists are Flower Pot and Elegance corals as they have dismal survival rates in captivity and require an established aquarium for any chance of survival. In summary, most hobbyists will be rewarded by keeping soft and LPS Corals as they provide a variety of colors, shapes and movement. These corals are fairly easy to maintain in comparison to SPS Corals, which require more intense lighting, calcium and alkalinity supplements and systems low in nitrate. Beginner hobbyists should remember to avoid Carnations, Gorgonians, Flower Pots and Elegance Corals as they are extremely difficult to keep. Send Us Your Questions: If you have any other Saltwater Aquarium related questions, Follow the link below and select the “Ask A Question” tab at the top of the page. We will quickly and gladly answer any of your questions, no matter how basic. Find More Information: To view more information about the underlined products, or to find more Articles, please visit http://www.NanoReefAquariums.com/WhatAreEasyCoralsToKeep • Location: indianapolis, in
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UV Sterilizer Overview Articleposted: November 5, 2009, 01:36 PM
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UV Sterilizer Overview Many hobbyists get tricked into buying a UV Sterilizer because the fish store said they need it to keep a Blue Hippo Tang. Although a UV Sterilizer will certainly help prevent and reduce the spread of disease, it will not make up for poor aquarium filtration and water quality. A UV Sterilizer is not necessary for a saltwater aquarium, but many hobbyists agree that it can reduce algae growth, increase water clarity and reduce disease outbreaks. 
A UV Sterilizer works by passing water over an ultraviolet lamp housed in a quartz sleeve. When water passes through the UV Sterilizer it kills or severely damages free swimming parasites and other algae spores. These micro organisms are no longer a threat to your aquarium inhabitants. When selecting a UV Sterilizer follow the manufacturer’s instructions for bacteria and parasite control. Select a UV Sterilizer large enough for your aquarium and a Pump that will provide the optimal flow for bacteria or parasite control. You cannot over sterilize, but you can pass water over the bulb too quickly! Also purchasing a UV Sterilizer with a Wiper Blade will make maintenance easy, as it can be difficult to clean the quartz sleeve. Like all light bulbs, UV Sterilizer Bulbs will need to be replaced and lose their intensity over time. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for bulb replacement; you should always replace the bulb before it burns out. In summary, a UV Sterilizer is not necessary on a saltwater aquarium, but it can reduce algae growth and disease outbreaks. A UV Sterilizer is a good extra piece of equipment to have, but is no substitute for a good aquarium husbandry and proper filtration. Send Us Your Questions: If you have any other Saltwater Aquarium related questions, Follow the link below and select the “Ask A Question” tab at the top of the page. We will quickly and gladly answer any of your questions, no matter how basic. Find More Information: To view more information about the underlined products, or to find more Articles, please visit http://www.NanoReefAquariums.com/UVSterilizerOverview • Location: indianapolis, in
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How Can I Make My Clownfish Host in an Anemone Articleposted: October 29, 2009, 02:05 PM
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How Can I Make My Clownfish Host in an Anemone It seems like everyone wants a pair of clownfish and an anemone, but few hobbyists are actually successful or prepared to keep a sea anemone. The most inexpensive and commonly available anemone is a Condylactis Anemone. Many hobbyists purchase this anemone, but later find out their clownfish will not host in this type of anemone. A Condylactis Anemone is a good purchase for someone who wants to try an easy anemone, but accepts that their clownfish may not host in it. Condylactis Anemones can be kept under most Power Compact Lighting and are fairly forgiving if water parameters are not pristine. 
Anemones will begin to walk around if the sufficient light, substrate, Rock Structure or water quality is not present. This can be devastating in a reef tank because they will damage most corals with their tentacles. If they do not find a suitable place, they will often begin to bleach, wither and eventually begin to die. If an anemone appears to be rotting or falling apart, immediately remove it from your aquarium, as it will release harmful ammonia into the water. The least difficult and most common anemones that most clownfish will host in are Bulb or Bubble Tip Anemones and Long Tentacle Anemones. More difficult anemones are Sebae, Ritteri or Magnificient and Carpet Anemones; these anemones should be avoided by beginners and do not make a good first anemone. Bulb and Long Tentacle Anemones require a minimum of Power Compact lighting, but T5 or Metal Halide lighting is preferred by most. The aquarium should also be fairly established and contain no ammonia, nitrites and less than 20ppm of nitrates. When purchasing an anemone, start by examining the base. Look to see that there are no visible rips or tears. Next, make sure the tentacles and anemone are fully inflated, and it does not appear bleached or faded out. Although some anemones are naturally cream, a transparent white is a strong indicator that the anemone is unhealthy. Acclimate the anemone to your aquarium and place its foot into a hole in the live rock or the proper substrate. The anemone should be placed in gentle water flow; if it is too turbulent it will blow away or move to a different location. If this happens, try placing the anemone in a new location. Once the anemone is established you can begin feeding it pieces of krill, shrimp or even small fish once or twice a week. The anemone will typically deflate to consume food and then expel waste when it opens. Most wild clownfish will host an anemone almost immediately, but some will appear to have no interest. For uninterested wild caught clownfish and tank raised clownfish, getting the fish to host in an anemone can be difficult. 1. Wait a couple hours after your aquarium lights turn off. 2. Keep the lights off; the clownfish will appear to be in a trance. 3. Using your hand, gently guide the clownfish towards the anemone. 4. You may need to repeat these steps for a few nights, but the clownfish will eventually make the anemone its home. Send Us Your Questions: If you have any other Saltwater Aquarium related questions, Follow the link below and select the “Ask A Question” tab at the top of the page. We will quickly and gladly answer any of your questions, no matter how basic. Find More Information: To view more information about the underlined products, or to find more Articles, please visit http://www.NanoReefAquariums.com/HowCanIMakeMyClownfishHostInAnAnemone • Location: indianapolis, in
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$450, Aquariumposted: October 16, 2009, 07:11 PM
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Moving, MUST sell 37 gallon aquarium on stand. Hood with light, heater, oversized filter system. 12 fish, lots of decorations, Python cleaning system, extra filters, misc.
Local Buyers, Cash Only • Location: NW Indy
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